第15章 THE TROPICAL WORLD (I) 热带世界（I）

THE WESTERN HEMISPHERE

The tropical regions, more than any other part of the world, are suggestive of magnificence — of luxuriant vegetation and diversified animal life; yet they embrace but a small portion comparatively of the land of the globe. While the greater part of the North Temperate Zone is occupied by land, the floods of ocean roll over much the larger portion of the equatorial regions; for both torrid America and Africa appear as mere islands in a vast expanse of sea. This superabundance of water is one of the great provisions which Nature has made for mitigating the heat of the vertical sun. To this cause the Tropics are indebted for those copious rains and periodic winds and constant ocean currents, which endow them with such an amazing variety of climate. The Indian Archipelago, the Peninsula of Malacca, the Antilles, and Central America, are all undoubtedly indebted to the waters which bathe their coasts for a more temperate climate than they would have had if they had been grouped together in one vast continent.

Another cause of the varieties of tropical climate is to be found in varied elevation of surface. Thus the high situation of many tropical lands moderates the effects of equatorial heat, and endows them with a climate similar to that of the temperate, or even of the cold regions of the globe. The Andes and the Himalaya, the most stupendous mountain-chains of the world, , raise their snow-clad summits either within the tropics or immediately beyond their verge, and must be considered as ordained by Providence to counteract the effects of the vertical sunbeams over a vast extent of land. In Western Tropical America, in Asia, and in Africa, there are immense countries rising like terraces thousands of feet above the level of the ocean, and reminding the European traveller of his distant northern home by their productions and their cool temperature. Thus, by means of a few simple physical and geological causes acting and reacting upon each other on a magnificent scale, Nature has bestowed a wonderful variety of climate upon the tropical regions, producing a no less wonderful diversity of plants and of animals.

Embracing the broad base of South America, the tropical regions bring before us the wide-spreading llanos of Venezue'la and New Grana'da; the majestic Andes, rising through every zone of vegetation to an Arctic region of perpetual snow;and the high table-lands of Peru and Bolivia, where the llama, the alpaca, and the vicuna have their home. The frosts of winter and an eternal spring are nowhere found in closer proximity than in the Peruvian highlands: for deep valleys cleave the windy Puna, as these lofty table-lands are called; and when the traveller, benumbed by the cold blasts of the mountain-plains, descends into the sheltered gorges, he almost suddenly finds himself transported from a northern climate to a terrestrial paradise.

Situated at a height where the “enervating power of the tropical sun is not felt, and where at the same time the air is not too rarefied, these pleasant mountain vales, protected by their rocky walls against the gusts of the puna, enjoy all the advantages of a genial sky. Here the astonished European sees himself surrounded by the rich corn-fields, the green lucern-meadows, and the well-known fruit trees of his distant home; so that he might almost fancy that some friendly enchanter had transported him to his native country, but for the cactuses and the agaves on the mountain-slopes by day, and the constellations of another hemisphere in the heavens by night.

There are regions in this remarkable country where the traveller may leave the snow-roofed puna hut in the morning, and before sunset pluck pine-apples and bananas on the cultivated margin of the primeval forest; where in the morning the stunted grasses and arid lichens of the naked plain remind him of the Arctic regions, and where he may repose at night under the fronds of gigantic palms.

Descending to the Pacific sea-bord, we come upon the desolate Peruvian sand-coast, where the eye seldom sees anything but fine drift-sand and sterile heaps of stone; and where for miles and miles the traveller meets no traces of vegetation, nor finds one drop of water. But when we pass to the other side of the Andes, how marvellous the contrast! On the one side, an arid, waterless, treeless waste; on the other, the luxuriant valley of the Amazon, the giant of rivers, which has made a broad course for itself through vast savannas and stupendous forests!

The Amazon has its cradle high up among the peaks of the Andes, where the condor, the vulture of America, builds its nest. So vast is the basin of that great river, that all Western Europe could be placed in it without touching its boundaries! It is entirely situated in the Tropics, on both sides of the Equator, and receives over its whole extent the most abundant rains.

The swelling of the river, after the rainy season, is gigantic as itself. In some parts the water rises above forty feet; and travellers have even seen trees whose trunks bore marks of the previous inundation fifty feet above the height of the stream during the dry season. Then for miles and miles the swelling giant inundates his low banks, and, majestic at all times, becomes terrible in his grandeur when rolling his angry torrents through the wilderness. The largest forest-trees tremble under the pressure of the waters. Huge trunks, uprooted and carried away by the stream, bear witness to its power. Fishes and alligators now swim where a short while ago the jaguar lay in wait for its prey; and only a few birds, perching on the highest tree-tops, remain to witness the tumult which disturbs the silence of the woods.

When at length the river retires within its usual limits, new islands have been formed in its bed, while others have been swept away; and in many places the banks, undermined by the floods, threaten to crush the passing boat by their fall,— a misfortune which not seldom happens, particularly when, along with the loosened banks, high trees fall headlong into the river.

The magical beauty of tropical vegetation reveals itself in all its glory to the traveller who steers his boat through the solitary mazes of the Amazon. Here the forest forms a canopy over his head;there it opens, allowing the sunshine to disclose the secrets of the wilderness;while on either side the eye penetrates through beautiful vistas into the depths of the woods. Sometimes, on a higher spot of ground, a clump of trees forms an island worthy of Eden. A chaos of bush-ropes and creepers flings its garlands of gay flowers over the forest, and fills the air with the sweetest odors. Numerous birds, rivalling in beauty of colour the flowers of these hanging gardens, animate the banks of the lagoon; gaudy macaws perch on the loftiest trees; humming-birds dart with lightning speed from flower to flower — now hovering for an instant before you, as if to allow you to admire their surpassing beauty — now vanishing again with the rapidity of thought. But, as if to remind on that death is not banished from this scene of Paradise, a dark-robed vulture screeches through the woods; or an alligator, like a black log of wood or a sombre rock, rests on the dormant waters.

In these boundless forests the monkeys form much the greater part of the mammalian inhabitants; for each species, though often confined within narrow limits, generally consists of a large number of individuals. The various arboreous fruits which the savage population of these immeasurable wilds is unable to turn to advantage, fall chiefly to their share; many of them also live upon insects. They are never seen in the open savannas, as they never touch the ground unless compelled by the greatest necessity. The trees of the forests furnish them with all the food they require; it is only in the woods that they feel “at home,” and secure against the attacks of mightier animals: why then should they quit them for less congenial haunts?

For their perpetual wanderings from branch to branch, Nature has bountifully endowed many of them, not only with robust and muscular limbs and large hands, whose moist palms facilitate the seizure of a bough, but in many cases also with a prehensile tail, which may deservedly be called a fifth hand, and is hardly less wonderful in its structure than the proboscis of the elephant Covered with short hair, and completely bare underneath towards the end, this admirable organ rolls around the boughs as though it were a supple finger, and is at the same time so muscular that the monkey frequently swings by it from a branch, like the pendulum of a clock. Scarce has he grasped a bough with his long arms, when immediately coiling his fifth hand round the branch, he springs on to the next; and secure from a fall, he hurries so rapidly through the crowns of the highest trees that the sportsman's bullet has scarce time to reach him in his flight.

Of the beasts of prey that frequent these vast woods, the jaguar is the most formidable, resembling the panther by his spotted skin, but almost equaling the Bengal tiger in size and power. He roams about at all times of the day, swims over broad rivers, and even in the water proves a most dangerous foe; for when driven to extremities he frequently turns against the boat which contains his assailants, and forces them to seek their safety by jumping overboard. Many an Indian, while wandering through thinly peopled districts, where swampy thickets alternate with open grass plains, has been torn to pieces by the jaguar; and in many a lonely plantation the inhabitants hardly venture to leave their enclosures after sunset, for fear of his attacks. Far from being afraid of man, this ferocious animal springs upon him when alone; and when pressed by hunger he will even venture during the day-time into the mountain villages to seek his prey.

The dreadful storms which burst suddenly over the Amazon recall to memory the tornadoes of the ocean. The howlings of the monkeys, the shrill tones of the mews, and the visible terror of all animals, first announce the approaching conflict of the elements. The crowns of the palms rustle and bend, while as yet no breeze is perceptible on the surface of the stream; but a hollow murmur in the air precedes the black clouds ascending from the horizon, like grim warriors ready for battle.

And now the old forest groans under the shock of the hurricane; a night-like darkness veils the face of nature; and, while torrents of rain descend amid uninterrupted sheets of lightning and terrific peals of thunder, the river rises and falls in waves of a dangerous height. Then it requires great skill to preserve the boat from sinking; but the Indian pilots steer with so masterly a hand, and understand so well the first symptoms of the storm, that it seldom takes them by surprise, or renders them victims of its fury.

A majestic uniformity is the character of European woods, which often consist of only one species of tree; but in the tropical forests an immense variety of families strive for existence, and even in a small space one tree scarcely ever resembles its neighbour. Even at a distance this difference becomes apparent in the irregular outlines of the forest, as here a dome-shaped crown, there a pointed pyramid, rises above the broad flat masses of green, in ever-varying succession. On approaching, differences of colour are added to irregularities of form; for while our forests are destitute of the ornament of flowers, many tropical trees have large blossoms, mixing in thick bunches with the leaves, and often entirely overpowering the verdure of the foliage by their gaudy tints. Thus splendid white, yellow, and red-coloured crowns are mingled with those of darker or more humble hue. When at length, on entering the forest, the single leaves become distinguishable, even the last traces of harmony disappear. Here they are delicately feathered, there lobed: here narrow, there broad: here pointed, there obtuse: here lustrous and fleshy, as if in the full luxuriance of youth; there dark and arid, as if decayed with age. As the wind plays with the foliage, it appears now silvery, now dark green — now of a lively, now of a sombre hue.

Variety of vegetation is characteristic of all tropical countries, but nowhere are the varieties so wonderfully brought together as on the Mexican plateaux. There the vegetation rises in successive zones from the base of the mountains to heights unparalleled in any other part of the world. It is literally true that the inhabitants, without leaving their native land, may view the vegetable forms of every country on the globe, and pluck nearly every fruit that is found between the Equator and the Arctic Circle.

Words

appears,produced on trees.

assailants,pursuers.

astonished,surprised.

benumbed,stupefied.

congenial,suitable.

constellations,star.

desolate,barren groups.

distinguishable,recognizable.

diversified,varied.

dormant,sleeping.

elevation,altitude.

enervating,weakening.

facilitate,make easy.

ferocious,fierce.

formidable,terrible.

gigantic,colossal.

inundation,flood.

irregularities,diversities.

lobed,having rounded divisions.

lustrous,shining.

luxuriant,abundant.

magnificent,grand.

majestic,grand.

mammalian,of the order of suck-givers.

marvelous,wonderful.

misfortune,accident.

mitigating,moderating.

obtuse,having a broad point.

penetrates,pierces.

perceptible,apparent.

perpetual,everlasting.

prehensile,adapted for seizing.

primeval,original.

proboscis,trunk.

proximity,nearness.

rivaling,emulating.

savannas,meadows.

solitary,lonely.

stupendous,enormous.

superabundance,excess.

tumult,commotion.

undoubtedly,certainly.

uniformity,sameness.

verdure,greenness.

uninterrupted,unbroken.

Questions

Of what are the tropical regions suggestive? Wherein do they differ from the north temperate zone? What effect has this on their climate? Mention another cause of the varieties of tropical climate. Give examples of its operation? In what do these diversities produce corresponding variety? What are the great physical features of tropical America? What constitute the Puna? For what are these regions chiefly remarkable? What is the nature of the Peruvian sea-bord? What contrast do the two sides of the Andes present? To what is this due? To what height does the Amazon rise after the rainy season? What changes are oberved after it has fallen again? Where is the beauty of tropical vegetation seen to greatest advantage? Mention birds that are seen there. What mammals are most numerous in these forests? What is the monkey's fifth hand? What does it enable him to do? What is the most formidable beast of prey in the Brazilian forests? What do the storms of the Amazon recall to memory? Mention some of their striking features. Wherein do tropical woods chiefly differ from European ones? What produces their differences colour? Where is variety of vegetation most strikingly exhibited? How is this variety illustrated?

西半球

热带地区比世界上的其他任何地方都更加富丽堂皇——它拥有繁茂的植被和多样化的生物。然而它们簇拥着的仅仅是地球上相对较小的一部分土地。北温带的大部分区域都由陆地占据，海洋则滚动在赤道地区的更大一部分。无论是热带的美洲还是非洲，都作为一个单纯的岛屿出现在浩瀚无垠的大海之上。水的过剩是大自然为减轻太阳的垂直热量而做出的伟大规定之一。因为这个缘故，热带地区的人们非常感激那些丰富的降水和周期性的季风以及恒定的洋流，这些都赋予了他们这样一种惊人而多样的气候。印度群岛，马六甲半岛，安的列斯群岛以及中美洲，都无疑相当感激那些将它们环绕在内的海域，正是这些海域，彼此将它们连接在一片广阔的大陆里，给了它们一种更温和的气候。

热带气候多样的另一个原因在于地表的不同海拔。因此，许多热带地区的较高海拔缓和了赤道的热量效应，并赋予了它们类似于温带的气候，甚至与地球上寒冷的地区相似。安第斯山脉和喜马拉雅山脉，是世界上最巍峨的山脉，将它们积雪覆盖的顶峰提升在热带地区或是刚刚超越了热带边缘的区域。它们一定是受上帝指派，来抵消垂直的阳光效果的辽阔土地。在热带美洲的西部、亚洲和非洲，许多幅员辽阔的国家如梯田一般崛起，超越到海平面的数千英尺以上，并通过它们的产品和凉爽的气温，提醒来自于欧洲的旅客，遥远的北方才是他们的家。因此，通过一些对热带地区精彩、多样的气候产生影响并且相互影响的简单的物理和地质成因，产生了这里同样精彩、多样的植物和动物群族。

环抱着南美洲广阔的地域，热带地区把委内瑞拉和新格拉纳达广阔的大草原呈现在我们面前；还有雄伟的安第斯山脉，在海拔上升的过程中展现出每一个植被带，直到一个永久积雪的北极地区；而秘鲁和玻利维亚的高原给了骆驼、羊驼和骆马一个家园；没有其他地方像秘鲁高原这般，拥有如此接近的冬天的严寒和永恒的春天：因为深邃的山谷劈裂了这片多风的秘鲁高原，也正是因此，这片巍峨的高原才被叫作“秘鲁”（它的本意是“寒冷贫瘠的高地”）。当旅行者快要被高山平原冻僵的时候，他会到达海拔较低的有所庇护的峡谷。这时，他会突然发现自己从北方气候区域来到了大陆上的天堂。

坐落在这样一个高度，在那里，热带太阳的使人衰弱的力量难以感觉得到，同时那里的空气也不是太稀薄。这里有众多令人愉快的山谷，保护它们的岩石墙壁对抗着贫瘠高地的狂风，享受着和煦阳光下所有的美好气候。在这里，惊讶的欧洲人会发现在自己的周围，布满富饶的麦田、绿色的苜蓿草地和本应只生长在他远方家乡的著名的果树。这让他几乎会想象到，一些友好的魔法师已经将他带回到他的祖国。但白天，他会看到山坡上的仙人掌和龙舌兰，夜晚，还有属于另一个半球天空中的星座。

在这个非凡国度的一些地区，游客可能在清晨离开冷风吹过屋顶的小屋，而在日落之前，却能在原始森林已开化的边际采摘菠萝和香蕉；早上，发育迟缓的草地和赤裸平原的干旱地衣可能会提醒他这里是北极地区，而到了夜间，他就可能静卧在巨型棕榈树的树荫之下了。

来到太平洋沿岸，我们会看到荒凉、沙质的秘鲁海岸。在这里，除了细细的流沙和成堆的干瘪石头之外，我们什么都不会见到；前行数英里，旅客都不会看到任何植被的痕迹，也不会发现一滴水。但是，当我们来到安第斯山脉的另一边，对比确是如此神奇！山的一面是干旱、缺水、寸草不生的荒芜；山的另一面，却是亚马孙平原繁茂的山谷和澎湃的河流。而在茫茫的大草原和广阔的森林之中，河流已经为自己开辟了一条宽阔的流经之地！

亚马孙平原的摇篮高耸在安第斯山脉之间，那里的秃鹰和美国秃鹫建立了自己的巢穴。如此宽广的大河流域，甚至可以将整个西欧安置其中，而不触及它的边界！它完全坐落在热带地区，在赤道两侧，并在其整个范围内接收了最丰富的降雨。

雨季过后，河流的膨胀像其本身一样巨大。在一些地方，河水甚至高于40英尺；游客甚至看到树木的树干上，有比之前旱季时候的浸水线高出50英尺的标志。然后绵延数英里的宽广河流，淹没了它的低矮河岸，时刻都如此雄伟，而当它翻滚着愤怒洪流经过无边的旷野时，它又变得如此可怕。森林中最高大的树木也在水的压力下颤抖。水流将巨大的树干连根拔起，证明了它的力量。鱼类和短吻鳄现在游泳的地方，不久之前还是美洲虎躺着等待猎物的角落；只有少数鸟类栖息在树梢的最高处，仍然可以见证这骚动扰乱了寂静的树林。

当长河在其通常的极限处退却，新的岛屿已经在它的河床上形成，而另一些却被一扫而空；很多地方的河岸都已经被洪水破坏。它们的落下可能会击碎路经此地的渔船。这种不幸在这里时有发生，特别是随着河岸的松动，高耸的树木也会掉下来扎进河里。

当一名旅客驾驶着他的船舶通过亚马孙河孤独的迷宫中时，热带植物的神奇之美会向他揭示出它们本身所有的荣耀。这里的森林形成一个树冠，遮盖了他的头顶，而有时它也会被打开，让阳光透露旷野的秘密；而两边的目光穿过美丽的景观，进入树林的深处。有时候，在地面较高的地方，树丛会形成一个堪比伊甸园的小岛。一个混乱的灌木绳索和藤蔓攀缘在一个姹紫嫣红的花环之上，遍布整个森林，散发出融融的甜蜜香气。众多的鸟类可以与空中花园的鲜艳的花朵媲美，使河岸边的小小湖泊生机勃勃；色彩艳丽的金刚鹦鹉栖息在高耸的树上；蜂鸟以闪电般的速度在花间飞快移动，一会儿在你面前盘旋片刻，仿佛让你赞叹它们无与伦比的美丽；一会儿又像敏捷的思想一般快速消失。但是，一只黑袍秃鹫的尖叫声穿过森林，仿佛为了提醒你死亡并没有从这一幕天堂般的盛景中被驱逐；或者一条鳄鱼，像黑色的木柴或阴暗的岩石一般，停留在安静的水域之中。

在这片广阔的森林里，猴子是这里最重要的哺乳动物居民；每一个物种，虽然经常局限在狭小的范围内，通常都由大量的个体组成。在这片无法估量的野外，许多种不同树木的果实，都是这些原始的居民所无法利用的；它们其中还有许多要靠昆虫来维持生命。人们从来没有在开放的热带草原见到过它们，因为除非迫于需要，它们从来不会接触地面。森林中的树木为他们提供了所有它们所需要的食物；也只有在树林之中，它们才能有家的感觉，并确保能对抗强大动物的攻击：所以为什么它们应该离开这里，而到一个不适宜的栖息地呢？

因为它们永远在树枝与树枝之间漫游，大自然也慷慨地赋予了它们很多。它们不仅拥有具有强大肌肉的四肢和巨大的手掌，它们湿润的手心也非常便于扣住树枝。而在许多情况下，它们也会长出卷尾，这可以当之无愧地被称为第五只手，并且其结构的精彩之处，几乎不亚于大象的长鼻子。它们的毛发很短，并且在体表的最里面几乎完全裸露。这一令人钦佩的器官可以卷在树枝上，仿佛是一个柔软的手指。与此同时，猴子通过摆动它的肌肉，可以在树枝之间摇摆，就像一个钟摆。它很少用它长长的手臂去抓住一根树枝，当它马上要将它的第五只手盘绕着树枝，它就会弹到另一个树枝，然后安全地降落；它如此迅速地穿梭在最高树木的树冠之间，运动员射出的子弹，也很少能够在它跳跃的过程中追得上它。

在频繁出现在这些巨大森林内部猎取猎物的野兽之中，美洲虎是最强大、最可怕的。它带斑点的皮肤与猎豹相似，但它的大小和力量几乎相当于孟加拉虎。在一天中的任何时候，它都咆哮着出没，在宽阔的河流之中游泳，甚至在水里，它也是最危险的敌人。当它认定一艘船上有会攻击它的人类，它会倾其所能地发动攻击，并迫使他们为寻求安全而弃船跳水。许多印第安人，当在沼泽和灌木丛交替存在的人口稀少的地域漫步时，可能会被美洲狮撕成碎片；在许多孤立的种植园里，因为担心受到美洲狮的攻击，居民们很少冒险在日落之后离开他们的围场。美洲狮对人类的恐惧则少得多，这种凶猛的动物会在人类孤单一个出现时，跳跃到他的身上；而迫于饥饿，它甚至会冒险在白天到山村里去寻找它的猎物。

亚马孙平原上突然袭来可怕的暴风雨，会让人想到海洋上的龙卷风。猴子来回平稳跳跃，马厩里刺耳的音调，还有所有动物脸上的惊恐表情，都首先宣布着一场灾难的即将到来。棕榈树的树冠沙沙作响，有所弯曲，而这时地面上还没有感受到明显的风力，但空中一阵低沉的声音，会在乌云从地平线上升之前来到，像一个严肃的战士已经准备好了投入战斗。

如今，原始森林在突然爆发的可怕风暴之下呻吟。如夜晚一般的黑暗笼罩了这里的整个大自然。当漂泊的大雨不停地在电闪雷鸣中落下，河流的水浪上升、下降到一种可怕的高度。这时，想保持船舶不沉需要很高的技巧。但是印第安舵手拥有一双如此娴熟的掌舵的手，他们也十分清楚地了解暴风雨的第一个预兆。因此，暴风雨很少会让他们感到震惊，或者给他们造成伤亡。

雄伟的一致性是欧洲森林的特点，通常它只由一种树种构成；但在热带森林之中，各种各样的种族争奇斗艳，甚至在一个狭小的空间之内，树木都很少会与周围的树木相似。即使离得稍远一些，这种差异也会因不规则的森林轮廓而变得更加明显。这里是一个圆顶的树冠，而那边是一棵如金字塔尖般的高树，用不同的持续性，跃于绿色的宽阔树丛之上。接近它们，颜色的不同会添加在形状的不规则之上；因为虽然我们的森林缺乏花朵的点缀，许多热带的树木却长满绚丽的花朵，混杂在它们厚重的树丛之间，经常彻底压倒了翠绿的树叶花哨的颜色。因此灿烂的白色、黄色和红色的树冠，会夹杂在森林中黯淡或更谦虚的色调之中。最后，当你进入森林之中，会发现单一的叶子变得稀少，甚至最后的和谐也消失了它的踪迹。这里的树木被绚烂的色彩装扮着；这里的树窄，那里的树宽；这里的树叶尖，那里的树叶是钝形的；这里的树木拥有光泽的肉质，好像青春的华美；那里的树木则黯淡、干瘪，仿佛随着年龄的增长而衰老。随着微风吹拂着树叶，它一会儿显出银色的吸引力，一会儿又是深绿色的——一会儿生机盎然，一会儿又色泽黯淡。

植被的丰富多样是所有热带国家的特点，但没有什么地方如墨西哥高原一样，能如此精彩地将这些多样性结合在一处。在这里，植被从山脚开始，连续上升到一个世界上其他地方都无可比拟的高度。绝对真实的一点是，这里的居民不用离开自己的故土，就可能看到来自于地球上每一个国家的蔬菜，采摘几乎在赤道和北极之间可以发现的所有水果。